Plasma Cutter, 110/220V 1/2 Inch Clean Cut 3/4 Inch Max Cut with LED Display, Pilot Arc, Air Sensor, Post Flow

The title says it all, is it legit 50 amp, hell no, not even close, probably closer to 35 maybe 40 amp but I'm leaning towards 30-35 amp true power output. It uses non high frequency blow back style (the flow of air through the nozzle causes a circuit to close allowing the pilot arc to ignite and stay lit, so it's safe on sensitive electronics or even to use on cars and won't dry anything unless you like cut into the wires or ECU. I run it on 220v with a 50 amp breaker, it has its own dedicated double pole 50 amp 220 breaker in a sub panel that only has 2 of those and two 30 amp double pole 220 breakers, so am not going to have power issues at all, it cuts using very low air pressure in my opinion. Typically to cut something I would never go below 40psi period but I can easily cut sheet steel with one side painted with only 25amps and 30 psi. And it jams through it as fast as I can move the torch. The stupid stand off deal sucks, flip it around and use the side that is connected to the other side to clip onto the torch while the side with two separate halves is the side to touch the work, that way your guide deal won't slip or move as it will super easy if you clip it on the way it comes clipped on. Just be careful not to break the ceramic cone part. Works way way better that way. Gonna run it on some t6 6061 3/8" and 1/4" plate and see how it does with aluminum since that is a difficult area for plasma cutters or at least that has been my experience. Cutting round stock it should be able to blast through 0.5" stuff but truth is, it doesn't seem to have enough cut power to do so, who knows, I will grab some rebar to double check, all in all for the price and the size. It's ability to run 110 or 220v and it coming with the adapter to make that work, the only thing you need to buy is a male threaded pneumatic quick connect fitting, unless you want to hard line it to something but then that kills the whole point of it being tiny and light weight. There are two places the air goes into the machine, I find that kinda dumb but I'm guessing one is just for the air pressure gauge up front the other is the actual air that is used to feed the torch. Why not just add a y fitting internally I can't explain. It would keep shit much easier and more simple, less material and less crap to leak or fail. Anyhow look if you are in the market for a plasma cutter and don't need to cut anything over about 18 or 20mm so 4/5" or 3/4" ish cut(u will need to hit it witg a flapper disc after cutting something that thick, pretty much anything over half inch or so is gonna have those tell tale plasma lines. Below that it cuts super clean. Ymwv obviously but it's cheap, light, small, delivery is quick, and it comes pretty much everything to work out the box, the only lane thing is this, it has a nice long torch line, maybe 10foot or so but the ground clamp wire is all of 3 or 4 foot long, you want to connect as close to where you plan to cut as possible to ensure a steady clean uninterrupted cut, it kinda kills the point of thr long torch line since the material has to be clamped right next to the machine. Still a killer buy

110 and it works great. you must attach an air compressor to make it work...FYI

It is small and pretty light. About half the size I was expecting. I don't know why I was expecting it to be bigger but I was. When I picked up the box off of the front porch I was surprised to see "20 pounds" on the label.The air hose from the regulator to the gauge is too short and kinks. That's disappointing and I'll have to buy an "L" fitting for that hose to keep it from remaining kinked. It doesn't seem to affect the gauge reading but will damage the hose over time.The parts in the torch head were installed loosely. I've seen many reviews complaining that it doesn't fire the first time they tried so they returned it. If the factory would have assembled the torch parts tight they could reduce the return rate I think. I tightened everything up before firing it the first time and it fired with no issues. Others have said that when they fired the torch it didn't fire and they solved the issue by tightening the parts, so that's the first thing I did.Regarding the torch, mine didn't come with that little safety lever covering the torch button like I've seen in videos. I'm glad because that seemed annoying and would have been one of the first things to get flung.The hose barbs for the regulator are not pipe threads, so it doesn't tighten up as you thread them in. They screw all the way in smoothly and easily, so you need to use pipe dope on the threads to prevent leaks. I don't think teflon tape will be good enough. Others have said theirs came with a small roll of teflon tape but mine didn't. I used Tru-Blu thread sealant (pipe dope) and they are tight and leak free. I only installed a hose barb on the regulator output, because I used an air fitting on the input so I can chuck an air hose into it. The air fitting was threaded properly and teflon tape would have worked fine there, but I used pipe dope on it as well since I always prefer that over teflon tape.The electrical cord grommet on the back of the machine is sloppy loose which will require me to remove the cover and tighten it. Since I will ultimately be replacing the cord with a longer one with the proper plug on it (a NEMA L14-30P since that's what I have standardized on in my shop and what comes on 220V generators), I have decided to replace the cord grommet with a proper strain relief grommet and tighten it up properly when I put the new cord on, but if I were to want to leave this cord on, then I'd have to remove the cover and tighten it up. That's a fail from an assembly quality standpoint.The ground clamp cord is ridiculously short. About four feet is all it is. The torch cord is nice and long, maybe eight feet (Update - twelve feet), but the stupidly short ground clamp is disappointing because otherwise it seems nice and sturdy. I don't know what they saved by shorting me on grounding clamp cord, but it resulted in wasting the whole thing which is sad.I'll update this as I learn more.Update:I took the power cord off and replaced it with a new 12/4 SOOW cord. The plasma cutter only needs 12/3 but I bought more than I needed for the plasma cutter and just used ten feet of it for the cutter, so 12/4 it is. I wired up all four of the wires to a new NEMA L14-30P plug but only connected the black, red and green wires inside the plasma cutter. I heat-shrinked the end of the white wire inside the plasma cutter's cabinet and tie-wrapped it off so that it doesn't flop around. If you are replacing your cord with a longer, better one, then just get 12/3 SOOW and don't worry about the extra wire. I didn't make a NEMA L14 to 120v adapter because I don't plan on ever using the plasma cutter on 120 volts.I replaced the cheap plastic orange air tube that came with the CUT-50 with a more flexible clear tube that won't kink. and I ordered a 15' grounding cord from Amazon to replace the ridiculously short 4' one that came with the unit.After my upgrades, the plasma cutter is much more useful to me and seems more heavy-duty. It cuts well and seems like it'll last for a long time, but only time will tell.I've attached updated pictures.

I just got it so my review is subject to change...Arrived in good condition, easy to set up, and works great. The rings that snap onto the ceramic cone are garbage, very lose and just fall off. The gun is well built and feels like a quality part, plastic is pretty heavy and not cheap feeling. I'll update this in a few months if anything changes.I also have the same brand non pilot arc plasma and it's three years old and still working fine.