Freud LM74R012: 12" x 40T Glue Line Ripping Blade

Great blade for fast, clean rip cuts on a portable table saw. The thickness keeps it from bending as much when you're technique isn't perfect. It leaves a pretty smooth cut if you run stock through a bit slower and leaves just the faintest blade marks if you push through quickly - which is easy to do cuz this blade devours wood. Great blade to have for ribbing lumber on a jobsite

I have several of these blades in our company shop and they work excellent and re-sharpen very well. I'll continue to buy these for our table saws.

I have been using a Freud 24T Thin Kerf blade for the past year ripping mainly white oak and poplar in thicknesses ranging from 3/4 through 6/4. It had the Perma-Shield coating and has worked very well for me. I did notice some blade burn on thicker hardwoods which I believe was from blade vibration on the thin kerf.In looking for another rip blade for thicker stock I noticed many reviewers mention the slick feel of the Silver Ice Coating. I will say, to the touch this finish seems a lot slicker than the red Perma-Shield coating. Freud recommends this for cuts up to 1" but I just ripped several hundred feat of rock hard quarter sawn which oak in rough-cut 6/4 thickness. Lengths were 14' and this powered right through with no burning and easy feed pressure. I believe the thicker 1/8" kerf also kept the blade vibration to a minimum. The finished edge on the wood was easily glue-up ready and if left exposed would require minimal sanding. It left a better finish than my jointer or planer does.Price was excellent versus the competing brands I saw. Delivery was quick and the packaging was perfect.As always, blade performance on a saw is directly related to the proper tune of the saw. I was using this on a freshly tuned Delta X5 Unisaw, 5HP motor, Unisaw Fence, with freshly waxed table.I won't hesitate to purchase this blade again once I wear it out and can no longer have it sharpened!With the better success of using a thicker kerf I am now interested to try out the Freud Thick Stock Rip Blade which they recommend for stock up to 3 1/2" thick!

This is a great blade. I've always been a fan of Freud products for their quality, sharpness and durability. This blade did not disappoint. It rips cleanly and quickly. I was able to go directly to glue up from rip without having to joint or plane. The only reason I knocked off a star was that I could still see faint blade marks on the cut, and I know the purists would not be happy with that. But there was no problem with the glue up for me and the seams were clean.

I have a jointer so cleaning up after a rough rip is no big deal. But, with my other thin kerf rip blade, a Freud 24 tooth one, it still meant that I had to plan ahead. That is, I had to cut parts oversize so I could joint both sides even if the rip was pretty clean. The biggest problem was that the thin kerf blade had problems ripping boards that were not "perfectly" flat. When I would buy hardwood, I would have to rip it right away. If the board had a chance to twist, ripping, especially relatively thin strips, was difficult. You could almost see the blade vibrate. Stabilizers didn't help. One could argue that you shouldn't be working with non-flat boards in the first place. Thinking back, I don't know why I have ANY thin kerf blades. I have a powerful enough table saw so that thick or thin doesn't matter. I can see where some craftsmen who must take a small, portable, table saw to the job site might need thin kerfs. I tried ripping both pine and oak with this blade. I thought the speed of cut was somewhat faster than the 24 tooth and the rips were, as is advertised, "glue line" ready. There wasn't any tearing or burning. I didn't try ripping any warped boards. I really like Freud blades and that is all I buy anymore except when I have a crude, non furniture, job like ripping deck boards. Then, I use the cheapest disposable I can find. I like the fact that Freud blades have recommendations printed on the side of the blade. That is, a blade may be good for crosscuts in general but not as good for melamine. So, if you are like me and have about 4 or 5 blades that you can choose from, you can choose the one that should give the best results for the material and type of cut. Just be careful when you are cleaning because the cleaner can remove all of the markings.

Freud quality rip blade. No issues upon receipt. Have ripped a bunch of stock for a project and it has performed well.

I've used this blade for about 2 months now on two different saw, I've used it to cut hard walnut, maple, cherry, purple heart and my finger (nearly cut my finger off but that's a different story). The first saw I used it on was my Ridgid R4513 Contractor Saw, I used it to replace a Hitachi brand blade with a similar toothcount. I immediately noticed how much cleaner the cuts were, there was zero burning on 1" thick hardwoods, unlike my old blade. The cuts were very clean, and it was like cutting butter, in fact it was so much better than my old blade my hand slipped on one of my first cuts (i didn't expect it to take the wood so quickly. Three weeks later after my finger had started to heal I purchased a Sawstop cabinet saw. The Sawstop came with a combination blade and I used it for several cuts forgetting about the Freud in my old saw. After several poorly cut boards I switched to this blade and was once again blown away by it. The saw is much quieter, and has cut everything thrown at it quickly and cleanly, no sanding is required with these blades. I've considered a Forest Woodworker II for my new saw and may get one for crosscutting, however this blade is awesome for ripping and I doubt the Forest blade would be much better than it. I'll post some pics soon. I keep forgetting to take photos of what I cut before i glue it up.