ROVEUltimate Dash Cam Hardwire Kit with USB-C Port for R2-4K, R2-4K PRO, R2-4K Dual, and R3 Dash Camera Models, 24Hr Parking Monitoring Kit with Low Voltage Protection

OK so this was not a quick and simple process. I feel like it was mostly because of Chevrolet trying to avoid people doing things inside their car and there are nuances to checking the polarity and what not that would not make sense to someone unless they researched a lot, like I ended up doing.A few things that you will need extra:1x 1/4-28 (not 20) nut1x pack of Gebildet 6pcs 12V-24V Add-a-Circuit Micro 2 Fuse Tap, Piggy Back Blade Fuse Holder with Wire Harness, 6pcs Micro 2 Fuse (5A 10A 15A) and Fuse Puller (New)To start off, one might wonder why the extra add-a-circuit pack. Well, I highly suspect that what is included with the hardwire kit is not micro2 but maybe just micro - I'm not sure. The micro2 fuses did not seem to want to fit in there very easily for me, so you may want to save yourself some time and have these handy.For my installation I went from the passenger side front cabin fuse panel. To do that I had to remove the tray in the center console that's below the dash/radio and in front of the gearshift. There is a rubber mat that you can easily pull up on and reveal an access panel.So from the fuse panel to the middle access panel I put the hardwire box near the fuse panel and routed the USB and up to the middle console.From there it's a bit tricky, but I routed the USB and down through the other side of the center consul towards the front by the gas pedal. I had to kind of tie it to the loop end of a wrench to guide it easily.Then, I routed the USB wire under the dash and behind the driver side panel to the weatherstripping, all the way up to the A-pillar and back across the top tucking in the cord under the headliner.I followed that same method for routing the rear camera cord to the back but I didn't go down as far routing it along the top all the way back while tucking it under the plastic.Here is the big time saver. I used F3 for the constant and F24 for the accessory. Both add-a-fuse pointing downward with a 15 amp fuse for F3 and the 10 amp fuse for F24For the ground, there is a bolt coming from the frame in front of the fuse panel (towards the front of the car). That one 1/4-28 nut I mentioned, I for the most part was able to feed that all the way towards the chassis. Then I inserted the ground between it and the chassis and tightened it down.Things I encountered along the way (which is why I am posting the instructions above as hopefully something that would help somebody else not go through this):-I encountered exterior lighting malfunctions.-The hardwire kit was not recognized by the R3.It's kind of a PITA to figure out which is accessory and constant given the panel was on the opposite side of the car where you need to be to test accessory mode. Items in the panel that one would think would operate on accessory mode like the heated seats were not on accessory or constant power.My Blazer doesn't have the electronic steering column lock but there was no fuse in its place so I added a 15 amp fuse there with the 5amp fuse - for the constant (F3).The HVAC system is F6 and I took the fuse from there put it into the add-a-circuit with the 5 amp fuse for the accessory.Anyway I hope this helps I will update if there are any issues.While it's not related specifically to the hardwire kit, it may tell you that your microSD card is defective. Try ejecting and reinserting the microSD card a couple of times to get beyond that screen so that you can format the card. Rove has a screen that says the card is defective and that they recommend their brand of cards or Amazon's brand - but the booklet says that you can check the listing for the brands to use. I used a Samsung Pro Endurance 256 card just fine by getting beyond that screen and formatting it.

Purchased a hard wire kit for my Rove in my 2025 Subaru Forrester Sport. This car has a fuse cover that causes the tops of the fuses to be flush with the cover. The provided fuse adapter will not allow the fuse prongs to recess into the female connection of the car. I am sure this is exclusive to very few cars. Too bad for me.However, this is an outstanding hardwire kit. Best i have ever seen. 4 different fuse block adaptors, a plastic pry tool for running wire and an actual test light. Wire guides, ties, the works.

I suppose technically there's not much of a choice when it comes to what hardwiring kit to get, since to get my Rove r2 hardwired properly, this kit is needed. I've also tried the Viofo hardwire kit, and in comparison this one is much better. The fuse taps I needed (low profile minis) fit the fuse box of my Mazda better. Also, the box is smaller, and the connectors for the fuse taps use bullet terminals that can just be plugged in rather than the butt terminals of the Viofo that require a crimp tool.

I have a 2025 chevy silverado and this dont come with 3 prong needed for install. Only 1 fuse has acc power in my truck and yep go figure it's a 3 prong fuse this kit dont come with one. Contacted seller and they did send it to me after about a week I got it but for cost compared to others should come with all needed connectors as stated in video from company. After this it is a great addition to my peace of mind.

Came with plenty of different connectors to suit most vehicles. Cord is plenty long and concealed easily. Good option for your dash cam

Easy to install with different style add a fuse. Works great and zero issues with operation.

Works fine. Had it hard wired to my fuse with a fuse tap (another kit sold separately)

Avoid this product and company.Customer service is practically nonexistent, and they do not honor their warranty. I purchased two of these cameras and encountered issues right from the start. One camera failed immediately. It took two weeks of back-and-forth before they finally agreed to send a replacement — but only after receiving my return — and the replacement was a used unit.I repeatedly told them that the problem was with their hardwire kit not supplying power to the camera, but they ignored my input. The replacement camera didn’t work either, and I spent another week and a half dealing with the same frustrating process.Eventually, I bought a new hardwire kit myself, and the camera powered on — only to shut itself off after a few minutes. It wouldn’t power back on unless I disconnected and reconnected the power. I informed customer service again, explaining that their used replacement was defective, and they responded with more generic troubleshooting steps that didn’t help.It feels like they either don’t understand English or are deliberately avoiding taking responsibility. Meanwhile, I'm also experiencing problems with the second camera but haven’t even been able to open a ticket for it due to the unresolved issues with the first one.Do yourself a favor: spend a bit more and get a product backed by real support and a company that stands behind its warranty.